Introduction to Pamplona

Pamplona is a comfortable, well heeled and compact city. It is the capital of Navarra, a small autonomous region in the north of Spain, bordering the Basque country, Aragón, La Rioja and France. It is surrounded by mountains, within an hour of the Pyrenees and the sea (San Sebastián), and has a variety of options for those who like food, culture, and the great outdoors. It has a beautiful old town that is known for its San Fermín festival in early July (6-14), made famous by Ernest Hemingway (read his novel, Fiesta, to get in the mood). The city is also strongly influenced by Basque culture, but presents its own unique blend. Pamplona has about 200,000 residents and is packed with bars, restaurants, beautiful churches and pretty parks. We are so excited that you’ll be joining us here.

Climate

Though only an hour from the sea, Pamplona has a continental climate. In the summer it can be hot (up to 40C/104F). The average daytime temperatures in the summer are in the high 20sC/mid 80sF. It can be very sunny, but cooler, cloudy days are not uncommon and there can also be spectacular thunderstorms. It does usually cool off in the evenings.

Language

Everyone speaks Spanish (castellano or español) in Pamplona, but you’ll also see things written in Basque (euskera) and you’ll hear people speaking it, too. If you go out into villages north and west of Pamplona, the Basque influence will be much more evident. You’ll see bilingual road signs, even some just in Basque. South of Pamplona, Spanish is dominant. Some people speak English, but don’t assume so. In small towns it is unlikely.

Food

Navarra and the neighbouring Basque country are known for great food and sourcing local ingredients. (Marina thinks it’s the best food in Spain…)

Spanish meal schedule & culture

If you haven’t been to Spain before, it’s worth getting your head around the meal schedule before arriving. Breakfast for most Spaniards is not an important meal. They may have something light to eat (pastry or toast, maybe cereal) with some coffee or warm milk before going to work, but it is quick. People may have a snack before lunch, and a coffee, but the main meal of the day – by far – is lunch. Lunch can be eaten from about 1:30pm and most restaurants would take last orders around 3:30pm. Lunch can last two hours and is usually multi-course. If you’re eating out, this is the meal to fill you up because most restaurants and some bars will serve a “menú del día” (menú of the day) that is cheap (around €8-€16) and consist of a set list of starters, main, drink, bread and coffee and/or dessert. In the summer it’s definitely worth eating a slow, ample lunch because it’s the hottest time of day. If you can sneak in a little siesta, even better. Many shops close during this time, so it’s best to just go with the flow and chill. Everything starts waking up again from about 5-6pm. Spaniards are notorious night owls, especially in the summer when the refreshing part of the day is the late evening. People may go out for a drink and bar snacks (pintxos in Navarra and the Basque country) in the early evening, until about 9pm. Restaurants will serve dinner, but it will be á la carte. At home, Spaniards eat light dinners between 9-10pm or even later. Often it’s just snacks from the fridge! Embrace the schedule and you should have no problem!

What foods to look out for – speciality food products

There are a wide range of food products unique to Navarra and some that are shared with the neighbouring Basque country. Make sure you try them!

• Cheeses – made from cow, sheep and goat milk. The sheep milk cheeses are the most distinct. The most famous are Roncal and Idiazabal. 
• White asparagus
• Pochas – little white beans
• Pimientos del Piquillo (from Lodosa) – triangular shaped red peppers, usually roasted
• Fresh vegetables (from Tudela and the Ebro River basin) – eat anything that looks fresh and local. The little lettuce hearts are delicious!
• Chistorra – like chorizo, but not cured. Usually grilled or fried. Pork based, with lots of smoky pimentón (paprika).
• Cuajada – sheep milk yogurt-like dairy product. Often served as a dessert with honey.
• Cider – Delicious, dry, alcoholic apple cider, which you’ll find all along northwest Spain.
• Wine – Navarra has a flourishing wine business with some nice whites and lighter reds. La Rioja is only 1hr away, so this will also be on offer.

• Buy these things at: GurGur, Calle Estafeta 21, shop with traditional products of Navarra, including sweets, wine, chistorra… http://gurgurestafeta.com/index.php?

Sweet tooth?

• Pastas Beatriz – Calle Estafeta, 22, Pamplona – there is often a line formed outside this hole-in-the-wall pastry shop that specialises in no frills chocolate based pastries. Make sure you try the “garroticos,” little mini pain au chocolat that are extraordinary. https://pastasbeatrizpmp.jimdo.com
• Dos cafeteras – these cute little coffee toffees are from Pamplona and won’t rip your teeth out. Most shops carry them – a great gift to take home!
• Valor, Paseo Sarasate 6, for chocolate lovers you can have great chocolate con churros and other chocolate specialities.
• Pastas Layana, Calle Calceteros 12, very famous for its pastries, Marta confirms.
• Manterola, Calle de Tudela 5, historical coffee place in Pamplona, though the terrace is not very pretty. Sweets there are good. http://www.manterola.es/
• GurGur, Calle Estafeta 21, shop with traditional products of Navarra, including sweets, wine, chistorra… http://gurgurestafeta.com/index.php?
• Confituras Goya, Calle Tafalla 28, a historical Basque sweet company. There is a shop in Pamplona. Warning: expensive. https://www.confiturasgoya.es/ 

Pintxos

Pintxos (pronounced “peent-chos”) are work-of-art bar snacks that you’ll only really find in the Basque country and Navarra. They replace what the rest of Spain calls “tapas.” Each bar will have their own specialties, all held together with a pincho (toothpick).  When you order your drink, order a pintxo or two to accompany. Some bars will also have pintxos that can be prepared hot, on the spot. Ask for a menu. Note that not all bars will serve pintxos all night; don’t assume you can get them at any hour. May we suggest…

• Café Roch, Calle Comedias, 6 http://www.caferoch.com – specialises in deep fried, béchamel based croquetas and other… Great atmosphere and delicious fritos. Comfort food!
• Bar Rio, Calle de San Nicolás, 15
• Casa Otano, Calle de San Nicolás, 5 http://casaotano.com
• La Mandarra de la Ramos, Calle de San Nicolás, 9 http://www.lamandarradelaramos.com
• Bar cervecería La Estafeta, Calle de la Estafeta, 54
• Bar Fitero, Calle de la Estafeta, 58 http://www.barfitero.es
• Mesón del Caballo Blanco, Calle Redín (drinks and small selection of snacks, great views) http://www.turismodepamplona.es/verpagina.aspx?idpag=71
• El Burgalés, Calle Comedias 5 (cod raciones and pinchos speciality).
• El Mesón de la Tortilla, Calle Navarrería 12 (Spanish omelette speciality) http://www.mesondelatortilla.net/
• El Gaucho, Calle Espoz y Mina 7, one of the most famous and expensive pintxos bars, but also great quality. Next bar is Guria where pintxos are also really good and specials but you don’t pay that much.
• Bahía, Calle García Castañón 3, some special pintxos & raciones. There is also a restaurant (not sure if they have a set menu or not). https://bahiapamplona.com/
• El Bistrot de la Catedral, Calle Navarrería 20, just in front of the Cathedral (as Bahía, it is not exactly a pintxos bar, but they have some pintxos, raciones and dishes, and the place is modern, nice and small, with good music. Great (and expensive) mojitos (€7).

Menú del día 

Some suggestions on nice places to have a good lunch, from €12-15 during the week. Weekends will cost at least €10 more per head. (Thanks to Marta Calvo, Pamplona expert, for these tips.) (The photo above is not a restaurant though… It’s a home cooked lunch!)

• La Cocina Vasca, Calle San Nicolás 13, traditional and well cooked food http://lacocinavasca.com/
• Otano, Calle San Nicolás 5,  http://casaotano.com
• La Mandarra de la Ramos, Calle San Nicolás 9, not only pintxos are good, but also the menu http://www.lamandarradelaramos.com/
• Txirrintxa, Calle Estafeta 87, same owners as La Mandarra de la Ramos. Good for pintxos and menu. http://www.txirrintxa.es/
• Raices, Calle de la Merced 5, small place, but nice. The food is kind of eco-friendly, based on seasonal products.
• Asador Errtetegia, Calle Estafeta 53, small place, but you feel like being at a “txoko,” a gastronomical society. You can have a menu or a great roast meat.
• Iruñazarra, Calle Mercaderes 15, more expensive menu of €21. Marta has only tried the pintxos, but everyone says the food is great. http://www.irunazarra.com/
• Nire Etxea, Calle Mercaderes 14  http://www.nireetxea.com/
• La Jaula del Cuatro y Medio, Calle Amaya 3, http://lajauladelcuatroymedio.com/
• Gastrobar Moka, Calle Tafalla 16, it isn’t in the centre, but close to Merindades, about 10 min walk. They offer three menus which dishes you can combine. And they have the best torrija (Spanish-style French toast) in the world, apparently! http://www.gastrobarmoka.com/

Cafés – Need somewhere to sip a tea or coffee and write your postcards? (Thanks again to Marta!)

• Cafe Iruña, Plaza del Castillo, 44 http://www.cafeiruna.com If it worked for Hemingway, it should work for you! Big, stylish, but worn turn-of-the-centry café.
• Katakrak, Calle Mayor 54, Bookshop cafe with fairtrade products. Wide range of tea options plus cookies, cakes and savouries. They also have a simple, but good (that’s what people say) menu. Great bookshop. CLOSED ON SUNDAY! http://www.katakrak.net/cas
• Tetería La Luna, Calle Curia 4, one of Marta’s favourite places (especially for breakfast or evening tea): coffee, tea, organic products, good cakes, lovely toasts… It is usually quite crowded, so you must be ready to wait.
• Behiala, Calle del Pozo Blanco 13, very tiny and lovely place for natural juice, good coffee and tea and homemade cakes. There aren’t many food options, but it’s excellent.
• Valor, Paseo Sarasate 6, for chocolate lovers you can have great chocolate con churros and other chocolate specialities.
• El peregrino, Plaza del Consejo 2, with few tables, it’s a comfy place with sofas. They have savouries and sweets.
• La Repostería, Calle Zapateria 20, opened last December. Homemade cakes. 
  
• Cookie Shop, Plaza Consistorial, nice terrace in front of the town hall (there is no space inside the coffee place). Good coffee, shakes and home made cookies.
• Napargar, Plaza del Castillo 32, For beer lovers, a place where you can choose among a wide variety of beers. Nice terrace in the “living room” of Pamplona.
• Café de Baluarte, Plaza de Baluarte, this winter it was undergoing a change, but we hope it will be open in the summer. Nice spot in a big, modern plaza.
• El vienés, Parque de la Taconera, A really nice terrace in the middle of the pretty Taconera park.
• El Mesón del Caballo Blanco, Calle Redin s/n Best terrace in Pamplona for a beer with great views.
• Bar Media Luna, Media Luna 15, nice place in the middle of Media Luna Park, with great views nearby. Some nights they have swing dance sessions and concerts.
• Cafeteria Arrasate, Ogi Berri y El Horno Artesano are three of the bakery chains in Pamplona that Marta considers the best. Preference to non-chain spots listed, but these are good options, too.
• Sirimiri, Calle Curia 12, Good for evening drinks, not for coffee.
• Shh, by Co&Co, Calle García Castañón 4, a cocktails bar, for those who want something more special than just gin & tonic.

Sandwiches

Yes, there is somewhere you can get (delicious) hot sandwiches (thanks, Marta!):

• Casa Jesús Mari, Calle San Agustín, 21, delicious, big menu of hot baguettes filled with local products. Good beer. Busy, but worth it. http://www.casajesusmari.com
• El Kantxa, Calle Juan de Labrit 33, next corner after Jesús Mari. Less variety than Jesús Mari, but really good sandwiches.
• El Mesón de la Navarrería, Calle Navarrería 15, the sandwiches are less sophisticated, still good.
• Saintwich, Calle Comedias 21, run by an Argentinian man, they offer sandwiches (British syle), but really well cooked. And they also have delicious Argentinian “empanadillas.”
• El café de Pablo, Calle Compañía 23, sandwiches, hamburguers and simple but good dishes. It is a small place so, but the terrace in the “hidden” square is the best option. https://www.elcafedepablo.com/
• Lamudita Burguer Studio, Avenida Roncesvalles 11, opened last year or two years ago, it was first hamburguer spot in Pamplona. It’s very famous in the city and quite busy. http://www.lamuditaburger.com/

Markets

If you want to fend for yourself in an apartment, or just see what people eat and what fresh fruit and veg is in season, try these markets…

• • El Mercado de Santo Domingo http://www.mercadosantodomingo.com
  • Mercado del Ensanche, Calle Amaya, 15 http://www.mercadodelensanche.com/index.php?r=site/contacto
  • All over Pamplona, and in the old town, there are numerous fruit and veg shops, butchers, fishmongers, bakeries, patisserie and small supermarkets

Wine

Want to buy some wine or do some wine tasting?

• La vinoteca, Calle Chapitela 15, the guy is really nice and give good suggestions.  http://www.vinotecanavarra.com/index.php/es/
• Vinoteca Murillo, Calle San Miguel 16-18, one of the oldest wine shops in Pamplona. http://www.vinotecamurillo.es/
• Pamplona Food (Calle del Carmen 5) is a really nice place where you can book a wine, olive oil, gin… tasting. You can choose if you want only red, rosé, white or combined tasting. And, of course, you taste it with some delicious traditional snacks (salchichón, Idiazabal cheese…).  Marta can vouch for this place. The tastings are in English and German, and if you can combine it with a tour around Pamplona.

 

Top sites in Pamplona 

http://www.turismodepamplona.es/verpagina.aspx?idpag=1&idioma=5

Pamplona has a nice tourist office with lots of good publications and we definitely encourage you to visit it. It’s just near the town hall (Ayuntamiento) at Calle San Saturnino, 2.

It is an easily walkable city and you don’t really need a car to get around. Here are some nice walk suggestions – we highly recommend the Arga River walk, which can take you along some peaceful routes and into the nearby countryside.

Walks: http://www.pamplona.es/VerPagina.asp?IdPag=265&Idioma=5

Some suggestions… You could easily spend a couple of days exploring the city.

• Cathedral (you can go to the top of the bell tower every day at 11:15 am if you pre-book)
• City walls
• Ciudadela
• La Taconera Park
• La Media Luna Park
• Old town
• Churches (especially San Fermín, San Saturnino and San Nicolás in the old town)
• Ayuntamiento (Town Hall)
• Museo de Navarra
• Museo de Sarasate  
• Plaza de toros (for Hemingway lovers)
• Walk the bull running route (Old Town)
• Hemingway route: Café Iruña, Hotel La Perla

Places to stay

Please see: https://habemusboda2017.com/where-to-stay-alojamiento/

Parking

This can be tricky in the old town of Pamplona where parking will be for residents only. There are several parking lots that you can pay for, such as those in Plaza del Castillo and underneath the Baluarte performing arts centre. During the last two weeks of July, the “Zona Azul” or blue zone parking in Pamplona is free of charge, so parking in the center of town should be less challenging than usual.